Facings are a common type of pattern piece used in garment construction, but the term can be confusing to new sewists. Perhaps you've seen this term recently and wondered, 'Facing what?'
Facings, put simply, are pattern pieces designed to cover a garment's raw edges, providing a polished look and added structural integrity. They are primarily used to support the edges of openings, improve fit, and enhance the overall aesthetics of your project. Common types of shaped facings include collar, armhole, lapel, and yoke facings.
Collar Facings
Collar facings finish raw collar and neckline edges, creating a clean look while maintaining shape. They are shaped to match the collar or neckline and attach to a collar band or directly to the neckline. Usually, collar facings are made from the same fabric as the garment for a seamless appearance.
Depending on style, interfacing may reinforce the neckline. Interfacing is a supportive layer, often made of woven or non-woven material, that is sewn or fused to the wrong side of fabric to add extra stability, strength, or firmness.
A collar facing supports the neckline shape and prevents sagging or distortion from wear and washing. Well-constructed collar facings help your finished project look professional.
Armhole Facings
Armhole facings are essential for sleeveless garments or for sleeve styles that expose part of the arm opening. These facings finish the armhole's raw edges, creating a neat look and added comfort. Like collar facings, armhole facings can be cut from the same fabric as the garment for a seamless effect or from a contrasting fabric to add a pop of color or interest.
If you want your facing to blend in with the outside of your garment, use matching fabric. For a fun design element that highlights the shape or adds visual contrast, pick a coordinating or contrasting fabric. Whichever fabric you choose, make sure it is similar in
weight and type to your main garment fabric to help the facing lay smoothly and function well.
Beyond aesthetics, facings reinforce the armhole, preventing stretching and distortion. A well-fitted facing allows more comfortable movement in sleeveless garments.
Lapel Facings
Lapel facings, used on jackets, blazers, and coats, finish the center-front lapel edges. They can be applied alone or with lining fabric to transition between the garment fabric and the inner lining layer. Lapel facings help the lapel keep its shape and crispness. Adding interfacing to lapel facings increases durability and prevents sagging. A well-finished lapel gives outerwear a tailored look.
Yoke Facings
Yoke facings are sewn to the back or front yoke of a garment, most commonly shirts, blouses, or dresses. The yoke facing is a panel across the shoulders or upper chest/back, adding support and ensuring a better fit, especially across the shoulders, upper back, and upper chest.
A yoke also contributes to the design, making it decorative and functional. By finishing the yoke's edges, you help the shoulder pieces lie smoothly, improving comfort and adding a polished touch. This facing is usually made from the same fabric as the garment, but may sometimes be made from lining fabric.
You’ll find shaped facings in many of our patterns. They help create durable, tailored garments. Understanding collar, armhole, lapel, and yoke facings lets you sew garments that look good and last. This extends the life of your clothing, making it more durable and machine washable.
Find some of our most popular sewing patterns that use shaped facings below.
Happy sewing!
